For many decades, according to the Oxford Companion to Wine, Argentina was the world’s fourth largest producer of wine, trailing France, Italy, and Spain, and enjoyed the third highest wine consumption per capita. The problem was that little of it was of export quality. Meanwhile, the wine industries in other countries surged, most notably the United States, Australia, and Chile.
The Chilean example
Chile began to find its stride over 20 years ago by identifying the most suitable varieties and locations and by partnering with several of France’s top winemakers. Partnerships included several of the top Bordeaux winemakers. By 2000 Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon rivaled France and California (and at a much lower price). And the spectrum of thriving varieties increased to include most of the better-known international grapes.
All the while, Argentina continued producing vast quantities of very inexpensive wine for local consumption—until it stuck the Mother Lode. Like Zinfandel in California, a grape variety that wasn’t doing particularly well in its French homeland took a liking to Argentina’s Mendoza region on the eastern slope of the Andes. Argentine wineries followed Chile’s lead in partnering with top winemakers from France and California to re-introduce Malbec to the world market.
Malbec—Argentina's national variety
Malbec was one of the classic varieties allowed in France’s Bordeaux blend until its frost-sensitivity and lack of resistance to the phylloxera louse inspired the vignerons of Bordeaux to replace their Malbec with other varieties that could supply the desired characteristics to the blend, most notably Cabernet Franc and Petite Verdot.
Malbec has found an ideal location in Mendoza and is almost always offered as a single-variety wine. It’s color is very dark, fairly low in tannin, and renders a rich, sumptuous wine unlike any other.
But Malbec isn’t the only variety that has found a uniquely suitable home in Argentina. A white variety, believed to also be of French origin, is rendering lovely, fresh wines. Torrontés has been compared to Pinot Grigio, but with better acid. Wine Spectator critic James Laube compares it to Viognier and tells us he never tasted a bad one. Like Malbec, Torrontés has become a national variety. Inexpensive bottlings have hit the international market and are excellent values.
Looking to the future
But there’s more. Argentine winemakers have discovered how to produce Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, and red blends based on Malbec that are fully worthy of the international market. So in the years ahead we can expect Argentina to continue to follow the pattern set by Chile. Increasing attention will be paid to identifying ideal microclimates and more expressive clones.
Recommendations
2010 Crios de Susana Balbo Torrontés Salta; 13.7% alc., $13.50
Fresh, crisp, and light wine from Susana Balbo, one of Argentina’s rising stars. Excellent value.
2008 Swinto Old Vine Malbec Mendoza; 14.5% alc., $37
Outstanding, aromatic, voluptuous and very enjoyable now.
Sources
- Oxford Companion to Wine
Alan Boehmer - Alan Boehmer has conducted regular wine seminars and wine tours since 1967. Originally based in Los Angeles, he served as a consultant for ...
Join the Conversation