It’s always been known that the rolling benchlands east of US 101 provide a substantially different winegrowing environment from the hilly region to the west. Eastside and Westside Paso Robles appellations have been in approval process for more than a decade. But more recently other Paso Robles regions have filed for separate AVA status as well. The distinctions between the eastside regions are small, depending mostly upon differing soil types and in the case of Templeton Gap, a climate issue.
Santa Margarita Region
The proposed Santa Margarita AVA is unique among all the Paso Robles regions—in many ways. First, lying 22 miles south of Paso Robles at the southern end of the Paso Robles AVA, it is one of the coolest growing regions in the area, thanks to the surrounding Santa Lucia mountains and a wind gap that allows marine air to influence the vineyards. In addition to the benefits of a longer growing season, Santa Margarita’s soil types are more varied than those of other nearby regions, comprising ancient sea bed, sedimentary, shale, volcanic, and granitic soils.
The Margarita Vineyard
The Margarita Vineyard, home to Ancient Peaks Winery, is meticulously planted with great care given to matching varieties and clones to the particular soil types and exposure. It is one of Paso Robles’ largest and oldest vineyards. Grapes were first planted here by Franciscan friars in 1780. The remains of the sub-mission, Santa Margarita de Cortona, may be seen on the property, which also hosts the annual Savor the Central Coast events sponsored by Sunset Magazine. The Margarita Vineyard is privately owned and operated by three prominent families and has earned SIP (Sustainability in Practice) Certification. Sustainable practices include deficit irrigation, natural cover crops, wildlife corridors, and the use of compost tea instead of chemical fertilizers.
The Wines
Ancient Peaks Winery produces a range of varieties, each selected to maximize the benefits of the various soil types of the Margarita Vineyard. Ancient Peaks offers estate grown Sauvignon Blanc, Zinfandel, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Petit Verdot, and Petite Sirah as well as non-traditional red blends.
2008 Ancient Peaks Zinfandel Paso Robles; 15% alc., $17
One of the best values we’ve seen in high quality Zinfandel. Aromas of deep, brooding wild cherry and white pepper dominate the nose. Bright acids, ripe cherry and plum inform the palate, along with notes of pepper, ginger, and the products of restrained oak. This wine evolves considerably over time in the glass, revealing additional layers of sweet fruit and spice. Recommended.
2008 Ancient Peaks Oyster Ridge Paso Robles; 15.1% alc., $50
This predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon blend is Ancient Peaks’ flagship wine. It’s name is inspired by the unique soil composition of this block, characterized by large (up to 6”) fossilized oyster shells visible on the surface and extending down to around 20 feet. In many ways this soil structure resembles the famous “calcaires d’asteries” of the Sauternes region of Bordeaux. This limestone soil yields fruit of a highly distinguished character. The composition of this particular blend is Cabernet Sauvignon 50%/Petite Sirah 20%/Petit Verdot 20%/Malbec 10%. It’s one of the most interesting red blends currently offered from the Paso Robles AVA.
Its rich, dark color suggests a wine with high extract. Effulgent and complex nose of dark cherry, ripe plum, licorice, dark chocolate, and coffee. The rich fruit component sings on the palate along with strong notes of chocolate. Tannins are noticeable but in excellent balance with the deep flavors and appropriately bright acids. A superb Cabernet blend that will surprise and delight every wine lover. Highly recommended.
Alan Boehmer - Alan Boehmer has conducted regular wine seminars and wine tours since 1967. Originally based in Los Angeles, he served as a consultant for ...
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