The Wine Spectator recently published a graph showing the comparative ratings of all the wines their tasting panels reviewed in 2011. The results are surprising, if not conclusive. The reviews encompassed all U.S., Italy, France, Argentina, Australia, Austria, Chile, Germany, New Zealand, Portugal, South Africa, Spain, and other international producers.
How many good wines were reviewed?
Of more than 15,000 wines reviewed only 2% were rated at 95+ (outstanding). But a welcome 84% achieved scores above 84 (very good). These are the wines most of us drink and there is an ocean of contenders. A full 36% of these were rated at 90-94 pts. Of course, the 2% that rated at 95+ interests us most. Which country or region produces the most outstanding wines in the world?
Top honors worldwide
The majority of highly rated wines worldwide came from Germany (8%). These were almost entirely Rieslings and mostly sweet. Next in line was California with 4% across the board. But these were almost entirely dry table wines. Syrah led the pack with 10% of the tasted wines receiving 95+ scores. In contrast, French Syrahs achieved only 2%, leading to the conclusion that there are much fewer outstanding Syrah producers in Syrah’s homeland than in California. In the same issue of Wine Spectator a California Syrah blend from Saxum was declared top wine reviewed in the current issue and awarded an exalted 97 pts. At a retail price of $85 it’s a huge bargain compared to the great comparatively-rated Syrahs from Côte-Rotie whose prices are currently $250-300.
California’s top wines
Next to Syrah, California excels with Cabernet Sauvignon, no surprise. 6% of the California Cabernets reviewed earned 95+ pts. But these are usually not great bargains. The best of these are priced around $250+. But in contrast, the great Cabernets of Bordeaux rated 95+ comprised less than 1% of those reviewed. So on the top end, the best Cabernet Sauvignon values seem to favor Napa Valley. The second tier of Napa Cabernet is much more affordable and there is lots of it. A full 46% of California Cabernets reviewed received 90-94 pts. and many of these are priced in the $50-75 range.
Pinot Noir vs. Burgundy
Differences in style (and price) aside, it was almost a toss-up between California/Oregon vs. Burgundy. California plus Oregon garnered 4% compared to Burgundy’s 2%, making American Pinot Noir on an even or better footing with the best of France, although styles vary considerably.
Italy
By far, the highest rated Italian wines came from Piedmont; mostly Barolo and Barbaresco. Southern Italy produced no outstanding wines reviewed by the Wine Spectator in 2011, but these are among the greatest value wines worldwide! You don’t expect 95+ wines from southern Italy that cost a hundred dollars a bottle. But you can expect excellent everyday red wines and wines that beautifully complement Italian foods for around $10.
France
The great disappointment of this report is how poorly French wines did overall. But there are bright spots. Champagne is still unchallenged as the world’s finest sparkling wine. Alsace remains as one of the most undervalued fine wine producers in the world with 48% of wines reviewed achieving 90-94 pts. and offer attractive retail prices.
A final word
Just because a region isn’t known for a large volume of highly rated wines should not discourage us from seeking those special wines that fly below the radar—and they are legion. For example, while 0% of Spanish wines reviewed in 2011 by the Wine Spectator received a rating of 95+ and only a meager 8% even achieved 90-94 pts., all the fine Sherry of the world comes to us from Spain and Sherry, along with Madeira, offers one of the world’s greatest wine values.
Alan Boehmer - Alan Boehmer has conducted regular wine seminars and wine tours since 1967. Originally based in Los Angeles, he served as a consultant for ...
Join the Conversation